Indoor Humidity in Winter: Why It Drops to 20–30 RH and How to Control It (Heat Exchanger Comparison + Practical Solutions)

Indoor Humidity Balance During the Heating Season: Real Situations, Practical Solutions and Common Questions

Air that is too dry or too humid – these are two common problems affecting thousands of homes during the heating season.

This is especially relevant in new or renovated homes with mechanical ventilation systems.

In some homes, relative humidity drops to 15–20 %, while in others windows fog up and RH rises above 60 %.

This article is not about theory for its own sake, but about real-life situations:

  • ✅ Why this happens.
  • ✅ What you can do about it.
  • ✅ How to choose the right solution for your home and climate.

Why This Topic Matters So Much

  • Cold outdoor air contains very little absolute moisture
  • Ventilation “carries” that moisture out of the home
  • New and renovated homes are very airtight
  • Different heat exchanger types behave very differently

👉 That’s why indoor humidity isn’t random — it’s the result of balance between ventilation, people and the building itself.

How Humidity Changes When Outdoor Air Is Heated to 22 °C

Below are typical, realistic cold-season scenarios. We assume the outdoor air is heated to 22 °C without adding or removing moisture (so the relative humidity drops).

Very dry <20% Dry 20–30% Comfort zone 30–50%
Outdoor conditions Typical outdoor RH RH after heating to 22 °C
+10 °C, overcast ~85% ~39–40%
+5 °C, rainy ~95% ~30–32%
0 °C, sleet ~90% ~20–22%
–5 °C, snowing ~80% ~12–14%
–10 °C, clear skies ~60% ~6–8%

👉 Even “humid” outdoor air can become very dry once heated to 22 °C indoors. Ventilation without moisture recovery can amplify this effect even further.

Heat Exchanger Comparison: Supply-Air RH After Heating to 22 °C

Assumptions for this comparison: indoor air is 22 °C and ~40% RH (return air), outdoor RH reflects a typical cold-season scenario, and the supply air leaving the heat exchanger is heated to 22 °C. The table shows the supply-air RH after heating.

Very dry <20% Dry 20–30% Acceptable in winter 30–40% Comfort zone 40–55% High >55%

Note: “comfort” is often quoted as 40–60% RH, but in winter (especially in airtight homes), 30–40% is often a realistic and still acceptable range (particularly during cold spells). Above 55–60% in winter, the risk of window condensation and mould increases, so such values should be treated with caution.

Outdoor conditions
Plate (condensing)
moisture recovery 0%
Rotary (condensing)
up to 20%
Plate (enthalpy)
60–73%
Sorption rotor
70–83%
+10 °C, cloudy (typically ~85% RH) 39.5% 39.5–41.0% 44.0–46.0% 45.0–47.0%
+5 °C, rainy (typically ~95% RH) 31.4% 31.4–33.1% 36.6–37.7% 37.4–38.5%
0 °C, sleet (typically ~90% RH) 20.9% 20.9–24.7% 32.3–34.8% 34.3–36.7%
–5 °C, snowing (typically ~80% RH) 12.8% 12.8–18.2% 29.1–32.7% 31.8–35.4%
–10 °C, clear skies (typically ~60% RH) 6.5% 6.5–13.2% 26.6–31.0% 30.0–34.3%
  • ✅ Without moisture recovery, winter supply air can become extremely dry after heating (often 6–13% RH during cold spells).
  • ✅ Enthalpy and sorption solutions usually raise supply-air RH to a more acceptable level (often around 30–40% RH, and higher in milder conditions).
  • ⚙️ In real systems, defrost cycles, airflow balance and filter condition can shift the numbers — so correct setup and control still matter.

FAQ: Common Situations and Practical Fixes

1

Rotary or plate (condensing) heat exchanger, indoor RH ~20%

What’s happening

Moisture recovery is too limited for the season, so once the supply air is warmed up it becomes very dry. Ventilation airflow is not “one number for everyone” — it depends on the building, the number of occupants, and the operating limits of the unit itself.

What to do

  • reduce ventilation intensity during cold nights, if your controls and comfort allow it (for some units, you may already be close to the minimum safe airflow)
  • enable an “anti-dry” / humidity protection mode, if your unit offers one
  • check for airflow imbalance between supply and extract
  • consider upgrades: an enthalpy heat exchanger or an additional humidifier
⚙️ reduce airflow at night ✅ anti-dry mode ⏳ check airflow balance

👉 Living at ~20% RH long-term is discomfort — not “normal”.

2

Enthalpy heat exchanger, but indoor RH still dropped to ~30%

What’s happening

This can be normal during the heating season, especially during cold spells (around –10 °C and below). Even with moisture recovery, outdoor air contains very little moisture, so indoor RH may still drop to ~30%.

What ~30% RH means

  • often still considered the lower edge of comfort, especially in winter
  • many people already feel dryness (skin, eyes, throat)

Tips

  • avoid overheating your rooms (higher temperature often lowers RH even more)
  • reduce ventilation during cold nights or enable an “anti-dry” mode, if your unit has one
  • temporarily raise RH with a humidifier to ~35–40%
⚙️ reduce airflow at night ⏳ anti-dry mode ✅ humidifier to 35–40%

👉 An enthalpy exchanger doesn’t perform miracles — it reduces moisture loss, but in cold weather RH can still drop.

3

Sorption rotor (high moisture recovery), but windows fog up — or moisture builds up

What’s happening

  • A sorption (enthalpy) rotor returns a lot of moisture (typically ~70–83%), so indoor humidity can stay higher in winter.
  • If the home produces more moisture (more people, long showers, cooking, drying laundry), RH can rise further.
  • When cold surfaces (windows, corners) reach the dew point, condensation appears — and in some setups, moisture may also accumulate inside the unit during certain operating conditions.

What to do

  • check whether ventilation is too low at night and after showers / cooking; increase airflow when moisture spikes
  • reduce moisture sources: shorter showers, use kitchen extraction, avoid drying laundry indoors when possible
  • improve air movement near windows (open curtains/blinds, don’t block radiators, guide supply air)
  • if condensation happens only in specific spots, check thermal bridges and window installation; also verify airflow balance (supply vs extract) and defrost settings
⚙️ adjust airflow when needed ✅ reduce moisture sources ⏳ check cold spots / balance

👉 High moisture recovery is great for comfort — but if your home generates a lot of moisture, you may need smarter airflow control to avoid condensation on cold surfaces.

4

New home, RH ~70%: enthalpy plate or sorption rotor

What’s happening

This is very common in new-build homes. Building materials may not be fully dry yet, so a large amount of additional moisture is continuously released indoors.

  • a home can take roughly 6–24 months to dry out
  • a lot of construction moisture is released during this period

Recommendations

  • temporarily increase ventilation to remove construction moisture more effectively
  • avoid maximum moisture recovery (limit enthalpy/sorption recovery if your unit allows it)
  • during the first year, it’s often better to use lower moisture recovery (for example, a standard plate exchanger), or run an enthalpy/sorption unit in a mode that prioritises drying
⚙️ temporary setup ⏳ drying phase ✅ more ventilation

👉 A new home doesn’t always need “maximum humidity retention” — early on, removing construction moisture efficiently is usually the priority.

5

When Do You Need a Humidifier?

Consider a humidifier if

  • wintertime RH is consistently <25–30%
  • you experience discomfort such as dry skin, dry eyes or irritated airways
  • reducing ventilation is not possible (or indoor air quality suffers when you do)

Important

  • a humidifier usually treats the symptom
  • but it doesn’t remove the root cause (very dry outdoor air + the drying effect of ventilation)
✅ aim for 35–40% RH ⏳ ongoing maintenance ⚙️ coordinate with ventilation

👉 The ideal setup is moisture recovery + a small humidifier (used only when it’s truly needed).

6

Simple Ways to Increase Indoor Humidity

  • add more houseplants (the effect is more noticeable in smaller rooms)
  • steam from cooking (don’t extract everything immediately, but ventilate afterwards if windows start fogging)
  • temporarily raise RH with a humidifier (for example, up to ~35–40% RH)
  • dry laundry indoors (in moderation, while watching for window condensation)
  • lower ventilation at night or use an “anti-dry” mode, if available

✅ Practical winter target: in most homes, keeping around 35–45% RH is enough for comfort without increasing the risk of window condensation.

7

Simple Ways to Reduce Indoor Humidity

  • increase ventilation (especially for short periods after showers or cooking)
  • use your kitchen hood and bathroom extraction as intended
  • avoid drying laundry indoors, or do it only briefly
  • reduce the number of plants if you have many and RH stays consistently high
  • temporarily bypass moisture recovery (bypass mode), if your unit offers it
  • temporarily switch from an enthalpy exchanger to a standard plate (sensible) exchanger (if your unit allows it), to reduce moisture recovery so RH drops faster

👉 If wintertime RH stays above 55–60%, it’s worth reacting early — this reduces the risk of window condensation and mould.

8

Is it worth opening windows in winter?

Short answer: opening windows does not increase humidity.

In winter, outdoor air contains very little absolute moisture. When you open windows, the air entering the home is usually even “drier”, so indoor RH tends to drop rather than rise.

When opening windows can make sense

  • when indoor humidity is too high (for example, when windows are fogging up)
  • when using an enthalpy or sorption heat exchanger and you want to quickly bring RH down (short, intensive airing)
✅ when it’s too humid ⚙️ enthalpy / sorption ⏳ short-term effect

👉 If your goal is to reduce humidity, opening windows can help temporarily. If your goal is to increase humidity, windows won’t help.

Very Important: Ventilation Control

Regardless of the technology used:

  • reduce ventilation during cold nights (if your controls allow it and indoor air quality is not compromised)
  • use “anti-dry” or humidity control modes, if available
  • regularly replace filters to keep airflow stable and system behaviour predictable

👉 Even the best system won’t work properly if it’s out of balance.

Final takeaway — in one sentence

Indoor humidity is neither “good” nor “bad” by itself. It needs to be balanced for the building, the people living in it, and the climate. When that balance is right, comfort follows naturally.

🧠 Recommendations by Climate Zone: choosing the right heat exchanger

Indoor humidity depends strongly on climate, outdoor temperatures and the length of the heating season. Below are practical, experience-based recommendations by region — focused on balancing comfort, moisture and energy efficiency.

❄️ Scandinavia (NO, SE, FI)
Long, cold winters with very low absolute outdoor humidity.
✅ Best choice: enthalpy plate or sorption rotor
Helps prevent extremely dry indoor air during prolonged cold periods.
❄️ Baltic States (LT, LV, EE)
Cold winters with frequent sub-zero days and long heating seasons.
✅ Best balance for most homes: enthalpy plate
Sorption rotors suit very airtight A/A+ homes, but require good control to avoid excess humidity in milder weather.
🌬️ Central Europe (SK, SI, CZ, RO, HU)
Mixed winters: cold spells alternate with milder periods.
✅ Recommended: enthalpy plate for stable comfort
⚙️ If indoor moisture is already high (or the home is drying out after construction), a standard plate exchanger may be sufficient.
🌧️ Western coastal (DK, BE, NL)
Mild but humid winters, frequent rain, fewer extreme cold days.
✅ Often suitable: standard plate or rotary with low moisture recovery
⏳ Enthalpy/sorption can work, but monitor RH to avoid window condensation.
🌦️ France & Luxembourg
Transitional climate with regional differences.
✅ Colder inland areas: enthalpy plate often works best
⚙️ Milder/humid regions: standard plate + good airflow control is usually sufficient.
🌤️ Southern zones (HR, N-IT, N/central ES)
Shorter heating season and moderate winter temperatures (varies by area).
✅ In many cases: standard plate exchanger is enough
⚙️ Enthalpy/sorption helps mainly in very airtight homes or when occupants feel winter dryness.
🏔️ Mountain regions (Alps, Carpathians, Tatras, Pyrenees)
Cold winters, strong winds and very low absolute outdoor humidity — even in Southern Europe.
✅ Recommended baseline: enthalpy plate exchanger
⏳ Very cold/exposed or ultra-airtight homes: sorption rotor can reduce moisture loss further, but needs careful control in milder periods.
🌬️ Ireland & United Kingdom
Mild, humid winters with limited frost.
✅ Usually best: standard plate or rotary with low moisture recovery
⏳ High moisture recovery is rarely needed and may increase condensation risk if ventilation is insufficient.
🌦️ Southern Australia
Many homes have a cooler winter season, while summer often brings air-conditioning. Conditions vary widely by location and building type.
✅ Solid baseline: standard plate exchanger + good control
⚙️ If winter heating causes noticeable dryness, an enthalpy plate exchanger can improve comfort. Very high moisture recovery is rarely necessary.

👉 There is no single “best” solution for every country. The right heat exchanger depends on climate, building airtightness, moisture sources and — most importantly — proper ventilation control.

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